I used to think Annie Sloan Chalk Paint wasn’t for me, because all the examples I saw were of layered and distressed finishes. It is really part of the ASCP brand, because the paint works remarkably well for distressed and faux finishes. But, it also has its merits for modern finishes.

modern paint finish with chalk paint

Why Chalk Paint?

I choose chalk paint for my painted furniture because:

  • You do not have to prime first
  • You do not have to sand first
  • You can do different looks with a finish coat (not locked into the sheen of the paint). I finished my media center with a satin sheen, but I plan to do a glossier finish over the same paint for an end table.

Possible downsides of chalk paint:

  • More limited color palette, but there are instructions on mixing paint to extend colors
  • Although you skip sanding and priming, there is an added finishing step at the end (see above why I think that is a bonus)

Tips for a Smooth Paint Finish

Achieving a smooth paint finish depends on several variables. The tool and technique tips below apply to all water-based paints including chalk paint.

1.  Stain Before Paint

If you want to create a two-tone look like I did on my media center with paint and stain, it is best to stain first.  It is easier to stain first.  Apply all coats of stain and allow to dry fully.  Then, you can prep for painting by taping off any stained areas.


2. Paint Type Matters

  • Chalk paint appears to apply with visible brush strokes, but it dries pretty smoothly.  Several thin coats are better than one thick coat.
  • Latex paint is more susceptible to brush strokes, depending on the quality of the paint.  Higher-end paints dry smoother.  You also have to properly prepare the surface by stripping and/or sanding the old finish smooth before painting.  For an extra tip, specific to latex paints, check out my favorite additive for reducing brush strokes (a must for painting trim and cabinets).

3. The Right Tools

Best brush and roller for painting furniture

  • A good quality brush – I prefer the Purdy XL Cub. I always have at least three in service and use them for cutting in walls, painting furniture, and even smaller craft projects.
  • The best roller –  I love Home Depots system for labeling brushes and rollers with good, better, best. I had always heard the white foam rollers were ideal for a smooth finish, but I always got bubbles with them. Well HD labels them “better”, so that got my looking for “best”. These thinner roller covers are labeled “best” and they are best. They say right on the label they are for painting trim and cabinets. Well, I don’t know about you, but I prefer my furniture pieces as smooth as my cabinets. The finish was incredibly smooth. This will forever more be my go to roller for furniture painting.

4. Technique matters

  • Brushing – I prefer to brush first and only use the brush on narrow or hard to reach areas where the roller won’t work. Brush in long continuous strokes and don’t over brush. Paint starts drying as soon as it hits the piece, if you over brush, you will get brush strokes. Also, it is important to properly load your brush with paint. Aim for the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the brush loaded with paint. Less than that and you brush will get drag marks and more visible brush strokes. More than that and you will drip and slop paint everywhere.

painting-furniture-tips-1 With the right brush and properly loading paint, even a child can help paint furniture and achieve a smooth finish.  My son helped me paint the front of the media cabinet. 

  • Rolling – Properly load your roller with paint. It should be saturated, but not dripping. Unlike painting walls, where you roll over and over the same area, I prefer to roll in long strokes across the furniture piece. I roll the paint all the way across, then pull the roller back, and finish with one final stroke in the original direction. Always finish each stroke rolling in the same direction. Use one long stroke to cover the entire length you are working on, instead of doing smaller sections.

How to Get a Modern Sheen

Matte or Eggshell Finish (Low Sheen)

If you paint with chalk paint, you need to apply wax or another finish after the paint dries. For a modern finish, I do not use clear wax. Waxing is a multi-step process, applying the wax and then later buffing the wax. It provides a quality result and durable finish, but the sheen is matte. More buffing can make it shinier, but it still won’t achieve a satin finish.

Dipped Chair I used clear wax on my dipped office chair.  It has a nice smooth finish, but it is low-luster.

Satin or Gloss Finish (Medium to High Sheen)

For modern pieces, I prefer a satin finish, and sometimes a gloss finish. For both I use Minwax Polycrylic in the respective sheen. Not to be confused with oil-based polyurethane, Polycrylic is a water-based protective finish that will not yellow.  Polycrylic can also be applied as a finish coat over stain, too, which makes it nice for two-tone (like my media stand dresser) or tri-color pieces (like my tri-color dresser). The Polycrylic requires 2-3 coats. I do not recommend rolling on the Polycrylic. Even on the can they recommend brushing it on. I use my trusty Purdy brush and brush on the Polycrylic in long even coats. I have been happy with two coats on my pieces, but the can suggests three coats.  Make sure to let the Polycrylic dry thoroughly between coats. Also, if you do notice any brush strokes, you can lightly sand with 220-grit sand paper in between finish coats.

Painted Dresser Modern Media Stand On my modern media stand, I applied two coats of Polycrylic in Satin Finish.  I used the same finish on the stained wood drawer fronts.

I am so glad I gave Annie Sloan Chalk Paint a try.  Just because most examples are distressed and layered, doesn’t mean you can’t create a modern look with chalk paint.  Even with the extra finishing step, I prefer chalk paint to latex paint for furniture.  I think the finished result is better.



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80 Responses to How to Get a Modern Finish with Chalk Paint

  1. Jenna says:

    It is beautiful, Jackie! I’m like you – I love a modern finish as opposed to a flat / vintage one! Awesome tips!

  2. Thanks for sharing! I am usually drawn to more modern pieces and it is good to know how to do that with ASCP. I even took a class about refinishing furniture with ASCP and we didn’t learn that. Thanks for the tip.

  3. LD says:

    Great tips!!! I use a buffer attachment on my drill to buff my pieces which gives me a nice sheen almost gloss and so smooth. Plus much faster finish, just an FYI.

    • Jackie says:

      Where or where do I get a buffer attachment? I have wondered about that, because there is no way people hand wax those giant pieces of furniture.

      • Chrystal says:

        Any word on the buffer attachment for a drill? I used Polycrylic in gloss on a desk and then a piece of glass on top. It has created weird sticking marks on the glass (looks like when water is trapped under glass) and looks awful. I am wondering if I buff it really good and then put the glass back on if that will help.

        • Jackie says:

          Chrystal, I can’t speak to the buffer attachment. But I am guessing the finish didn’t cure fully before putting the glass on top. You may want to check how long Polycrylic recommends allowing the piece to fully cure (not just dry).

        • Dawn says:

          We just purchased a Ryobi buffer at Home Depot for $24. We originally went there looking for a buffer attachment for a drill and didn’t find anything that would work. For $24, we couldn’t resist the convenience of owning the buffer (it can be used on cars too!)

  4. Amy says:

    Thanks for the tips! Did you end up priming this piece? Did you sand between coats of ASCP? And do you sand again between coats of wax or polycrylic? Sorry for all the questions!

    • Jackie says:

      Amy, I did not prime this piece, but I had stripped it before knowing I would use chalk paint. For the sister dresser, I did not prime or strip. You do not need to prime, strip, or sand before applying chalk paint.

      I did not sand between coats of chalk paint. Using a quality brush and roller, each coat applied smoothly. I did not sand between Polycrylic coats. Using a quality brush it applied smoothly over the already smooth paint. I did not use any wax on this piece. Waxing is a whole other process.

      Hope that extra detail helps.

      • Amy says:

        Thanks Jackie! I’m shocked you didn’t have to dilute the paint and got this smooth finish with the chalk paint using your brush and roller. I am definitely going to try this. I’m wondering if you would sand between wax coats?

  5. Jess says:

    Hey Jackie,

    Great article! What color and brand of chalk paint did you use for the turquoise chair? It doesn’t look like any of the Annie Sloan colors.


  6. Darcy says:

    Jackie – I recently purchased this same exact dresser at an auction. My son decided he wanted it as a media center. I was going to paint it all the same color – olive ASCP. When I came across this, I loved it and my son does too. Did you water down the chalk paint any? He doesn’t want brush strokes and everything I’ve painted with ASCP has noticeable brush strokes. Did you actually roll the top of the media center?

    • Jackie says:

      Darcy, I did not water mine down, although I have heard that helps. The key to my success was the small “best” quality roller. I did roll the entire top using long rolls all the way across in the same direction. I brushed the small front parts and the. Went over them with the roller quickly. The only totally brushed part is the frames around the drawers. Also, with ASCP the first coat always looks worst. I do 2-3 coats. Then, I used the same type of roller to apply the polycrylic top coat.

  7. Pat says:

    What colour stain did you use on this?

  8. Mia says:

    I’ve just started using Ascp and I too like the more modern look. This post gave me hope that I can get the finish I want on my furniture! :)
    I just have one quick question. How long did you let the paint to dry before applying the Polycrylic? I was thinking that I might need to let the paint fully cure for 3-4 weeks but who’s got the patience?
    Thank you for a great post!

    • Jackie says:

      Mia, I applied the polycrylic the next day on all the pieces I have done with this method and they have all held up fine. Even is you use ASCP wax, you can apply after paint drys. The wax takes like a month to cure fully.

  9. Katherine says:


    This was very helpful, thank you! Quick question: can you use the Minwax Polycrylic over the wax? I am painting a TV stand, and texted out the soft wax on one of the doors, and decided I didn’t want a matte look. I am definitely looking for something more modern/shiny. Am I able to use the Minwax Polycrylic over the door I already waxed? Thanks for your help!

    • Jackie says:

      Katherine, I am not sure. I do not know how the Minwax would perform over the wax. I would ask for guidance at the home improvement store or try to contact Minwax.

    • Teri says:

      Katherine, I am sure that you have an answer by now, but just in case, no you should not use any kind of poly over wax. You can, however, use a wax over poly.

  10. Joanne says:

    Very comprehensive info on chalk paint. One question, cabinets in manufactured home usually have wood doors but the frame is particle board covered with a type of contact, wood look vinyl paper. Can chalk paint be applied to that?

  11. Rachel walker says:

    Does the satin finish give a sort of coloured wood/laminate wood finish? I have found some in the uk but not sure what finish to get that or semi gloss. I just want a slight sheen not too gloss like. Also is it hard wearing or is wax better for that?

    • Jackie says:

      Rachel, The satin finish is a low-sheen clear finish. Semi-gloss will have a higher sheen more like laminate furniture. I think the finished look of the satin finish is similar to a waxed piece, but the waxed piece will feel different. The satin finish wears well, so does the wax. The thing to remember is the wax has to be applied correctly and takes several weeks to harden to a durable finish, so there is some open time while the wax cures. The satin polyarcylic cures much quicker.

  12. Rachel walker says:

    Thank you. I’m so unsure on what to go for. Found out is £30 for 1/2 pint here in the UK so cheaper to buy from the states and have it posted but either way no chance of a sample. I don’t want a high gloss finish like gloss paint used for doors – would the semi gloss be like this? I’ve also never done it before so expect the minwax might be easier

  13. Rachel walker says:

    Hi Jackie one last question if that is ok. What sort of roller did you use. I have found high quality ones in my local DIY store but one says for normal emulsion paint and one says for gloss or varnish and I wasn’t sure which would achieve a smooth finish. Thanks :)

  14. Jennifer says:

    Thanks for confirming that it will really be OK to put Polycrylic over chalk paint. I want to use chalk paint on my kitchen cabinets, but I am uneasy about how well wax would block the inevitable grime that will land on them. While I absolutely love media center, I really wanted to comment on your handsome young helper. I just LOVE the determined concentration that is etched on his face!

  15. Elizabeth says:

    Hi can you answer this question please, I made my own diy chalk paint I just did not like how the color looks on the dresser, can I apply latex paint over it or do I have to sand it down and prime? By the way your media piece came out awesome!

    • Jackie says:

      Elizabeth, Oh no. I am sorry you didn’t like it. I can’t advise you on painting latex over chalk paint, because I have never tried it. I would call your local chalk paint dealer and ask.

  16. Shay says:

    Hi, I came across your post with these wonderful tips half way into my project unfortunately. I’ve brushed on two coats of graphite now and see the brush strokes on two sides of my piece. I still think it needs another coat anyway. Do you think I can roll over what I’ve already done with brush strokes and still achieve a smooth finish or do you think I need to go back and sand first? Also I was really going for a smooth, matte black finish with no sheen whatsoever. The lady I bought the paint from suggested no wax or any finish beyond the paint. I have children in the house and find that idea a little frightening. Do you have any suggestions for maintaining the finish. She felt the wax would even give it some sheen. Wondering why someone can’t make a self leveling matte finish paint with maybe a longer drying time to avoid associated issues. Thanks for the great post! I learned more from this than time wasted on several other YouTube videos.

  17. Shay says:

    Forgot to add in my initial post I did buy the newer Annie Sloan flat brush under the pretense it would achieve a smooth, brush stroke free finish. Just want to add that to hopefully help others and encourage them to roll it as you have done instead. The paint dries so incredibly fast that the brush was not a solution for a large surface area.

  18. Vicki says:

    Thank you for posting this! I also like modern finishes, but tried the chalk paint this week b/c everyone raved about it. I did like the coverage but not the matte finish. I still see brush strokes. How many coats do you usually need to apply to get rid of those? I already put on a light coat of wax. It didn’t give a sheen at all so I may not have applied enough. But do I have to sand it down before re-applying another coat of chalk paint or the polycrylic?

    • Jackie says:

      Vicki, I am not an expert, but from my experience more coats does not make the brush strokes go away, but actually makes it worse. No matter what kind of paint you use, the best way to avoid brush strokes is thin coats of paint followed by a light sanding before applying another coat of paint. Also, the soft wax doesn’t create a real high sheen, it’s more of a luster. As long as your piece feels smooth to the touch and isn’t tacky, then you are doing it right. But don’t expect a gloss sheen with the wax. Hope that helps.

    • Shay says:

      Do NOT sand chalk paint. I bought the finest sandpaper I could find 1,000 grit and it still left it a mess. I found the only way I could eliminate brush strokes was with the roller she recommended with very light coat of paint. You really have to play around with it. I loved the matte finish and used Dead Flat varnish by Modern Masters to preserve that matte finish. If you don’t like the matte finish then try Vax by Shabby Paints. Polycrylic lifted the grain back up on piece and I was very upset as that’s what I was hoping to eliminate :(

  19. Tawnya says:

    From what I’ve researched… if your going to do wax, that’s the final step! It repels, so applying a poly coat afterwards won’t quite work. I believe you have to remove the wax before you apply anything else : )

    • Jackie says:

      Tawnya, I agree. On this project I skipped the wax (because I don’t prefer the finish) and only used polycrylic. I don’t recommend putting polycrylic over the wax.

  20. Paula says:

    Question…. In your explanation of how you use the roller and the brush you said you use the roller for the paint and you do not recommend rolling on the polycyclic. Then in a response to a different question from Darcy you said you used the same roller for the poly as you did for the paint. Are you rolling the poly on or painting it on?

    Thank you so much!

    • Jackie says:

      Paula, Sorry for any confusion. I’ve done both, but the roller tends to cause bubbles in the polycrylic and is easy to apply too much (which will dry milky instead of clear). Long brushstrokes is the best.

  21. Shannon summey says:

    I just finished a chalkpainted dressor i waxed drawers with minwax but wanted a slightly satin durable finish for top(kids dressor) please tell me difference between WIPE-ON POLY-vs-LIQUID POLY .. I am so confused my project is at a standstill do to this

    • Jackie says:

      Shannon, I only have experience with Polycrylic which brushes on.

    • Kristine says:

      Shannon Summey, (Or anyone who has done CP on a dresser top and then sealed it with a poly or ANY finish that worked out well)
      I can’t see where Jackie or anyone else was able to answer your question on here and noticed you said your project was at a standstill one month ago… I too am doing a child’s dresser and have the same type question/confusion as you… So, my questions to you are,… #1) Did you ever get your answer? (If so can you post it here) #2)Did you actually finish your project yet? (If so, can you post the steps, products used, and results here as well?) I want to paint an old dresser for a child’s room with homemade CP and as you stated would like a durable finish on the top (We all know it will take a beating in a child’s room) and would love to know what you, (or anyone else who has done the same)used to accomplish this… Either way I hope it turns/turned out beautiful for you! Thank you (and anyone else who answers) in advance for your time. :)

      • Shay says:

        I used the brush on polycrylic applied with a sponge brush on the armoire interior as she suggests here. It is durable and will hold up well. I didn’t used Polycrylic on the outside of my armoire as I wanted to maintain the matte finish. I used Modern Masters dead flat varnish which had the desired finish outcome and durability, but it was so expensive! I also tried Vax by Shabby Paints, but I found it to leave streaks. I used a very dark chalk paint color though and have heard the graphite color is not forgiving to finishes. I have no experience with wipe on polys and chalk paint. If you decide to use brush on, don’t shake it, just stir it. Opposite of martinis :0 and try using a sponge brush in the manner she suggests for application with moderate amount on applicator versus a thick coat. It dries fast so you will need to brush on quickly with the grain and then take one even pass when you finish a line. Try not to overlap too much. Try to work quickly or it will start drying on you before you can finish a section. Some people may disagree with me on this, but I bought 1,000 grit sandpaper which is super duper fine and was unable to sand between coats even with the lightest touch. My suggestion is just do not even try it. Live with the bubble or you will be redoing more than you want to. Good luck!

      • Shay says:

        Forgot to mention that I used the polycrylic on the slide out keyboard tray inside the armoire which takes a lot of abuse so feel that’s similar to the wear on a dresser top for comparison.

  22. David says:

    I am in the process of finishing beautiful dark stainedset of cabinets using ascp
    The customer wanted this product. She chose white. She wanted something more durable than wax so I have used two coats ofminwax polycrylic. Iapplied 3 coats of ascp and 2 coats poly. Looks ok but better resullts would have achieved with a primer and 2 coats of oil base enamel

  23. Jackie says:

    Hi Jackie have you had any issues with visible brushstrokes with the Minwax Polyscrylic? I keep reading this can be a problem and just wanted to see if you had any tips. Thanks!

    • Jackie says:

      Jackie, I have not had any issues when using a high-quality paint brush. Also, don’t over-brush the polyacrylic. It’s not like paint that you brush over and over for coverage. You should be putting enough on your brush to get good coverage with one or two strokes. If you go over it too many times, as it starts to dry, the brushstrokes will be more apparent.

      • Jackie says:

        Also, make sure the paint coats underneath the polycrylic are smooth. Lightly sand between coats and before applying poly to remove any brushstrokes in the paint. The top coat will pick up any brushstrokes underneath it. Again, using a high-quality brush that is well-loaded, I don’t have a lot of trouble with brush strokes in my paint either.

  24. Julie says:

    Would you recommend the same procedure for kitchen cabinets you think?

    • Jackie says:


      I am not sure. I have not been brave enough to use chalk paint on kitchen cabinets, although I know it can be.

    • Shay says:

      Just want to add my piece hasn’t held up as well as I’d hoped. I think that although sanding isn’t supposedly necessary with chalk paint, it doesn’t hold up well. If you have a distressed finish maybe that’s fine, but didn’t care for it on the piece I did going for a modern look. It’s been six months so obviously the finish “cured” and I used protective top coat as well. Now I wish I had just roughed up a little bit or actually used gel stain or paint. I’ve had great luck with SW pro classic enamel. Painted all our trim and fireplace surround. It’s self leveling and looks great even though I’m not a good painter. I may use it on my kitchen cabinets where I had previously hoped to use chalk paint. My friend used ASCP on her cabinets and looks good, but distressed and not my taste. I’m still using these painting tips with the roller as I think these are really good painting tips regardless of the project.

  25. KarenS says:

    Wow, thanks for this oh-so-helpful article – definitely a keeper, with all of these invaluable tips! Also, I just have to say how much I love the look of your media center – so beautiful! And the oddest thing about that is that (1) I’ve never been a fan of the Mid-Century furniture style (even though I’m a child of the ’60s, and it was all the rage back then!), (2) I don’t particularly like the particular shade of wood stain you chose, 3) I’m also not a big fan of that particular shade of blue for my personal style, and (4) I’m also not a huge fan of the “modern” look of furniture. As to #4, I usually find modern furniture to be too “harsh” due to the simple lines and designs and “flat” or “square” edges. I’m more into the “rounded” or “curvy” furniture styles, with more embellishments – whether distressed or not.

    But in spite of that, you somehow turned this piece into something eye-popping that blew right through my “eh, not for me” filter and makes me smile and go, “Wow, that’s amazing … and so fun!” It looks like a “happy” piece of furniture, and happy furniture is always a good thing! ‘

    Kudos for a job well done, and for the wonderful blog post as well!

  26. Peggy says:

    THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! So many informative tips. I was scared to chalk paint my very old dining room st…but you gave me the confidence to try…wish me luck

  27. Laura says:

    I love your poly idea but I already did two coats of the clear Wax and it isn’t the high gloss look I wanted. Can I now poly over that?

    • Jackie says:

      Laura, I am not sure. Wax is meant to be a topcoat and I do not know if you can apply poly over top. My guess would be no. Unfortunately wax will not give you a high gloss finish. You can try buffing more to increase the sheen, but it still won’t be glossy.

      • Andrew says:

        If I already applied wax, couldn’t I just paint more chalk paint over the wax, and then apply the polycrylic gloss?

  28. Sondra says:

    Thank you so much for this! As much as I dig the vintage/distressed look, I prefer sleek and smooth modern finishes. I’ve seen pictures of people using chalk paint to achieve a modern look, but have never seen anyone describe how to do it! It’s the only thing that’s kept me off of the chalk paint band wagon. Thank you, again!

  29. Sheila Rothschild says:

    My first chalk paint project and I do want a smooth surface, so I’m glad I read about not using wax. However, I do want to antique recessed areas, so at what point do I do that (and with what–dark wax?) Thanks for your help.

  30. Jenea says:

    So glad I found this article! I just finished painting a pedestal dining table black & bought the polycrylic to seal. I would love a pointer or two- 1. Should I seal the top or the entire table? 2. I see some brush strokes around the edge of the tabletop, will they disappear after I seal? Thanks so much!

  31. Carole Dube says:

    Beautiful! I’m trying chalk paint for the base of my table and I’m not de-stressing it. I sand the base thinking I was staining it but change my mind. Because of the bare wood they recommended I prime with oil. Can’t use oil in my house, I can’t breath the vapour. So I decided to use chalk paint. We don’t have Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in my city. I’m going to use Websters Chalk paint powder and make my own. You can choose any colour of paint you want.

  32. Carole Dube says:

    I have a question is Minwax Polycrylic only water? I ask for water base at Fargeys and she give me Acrylic Polyurethane. You clean with water and soap but it has a bit of polyurethane and I was reading low fume. I may go buy Minwax instead.

  33. Jennifer Webb says:

    Jackie, Thank you so MUCH!!!!! My china hutch chalk paint project was quickly turning into a nightmare, but I couldn’t figure out why —until I read your suggestions for which paint brush and rollers to use. You saved me, my hutch and my sanity!!! Everything is going on smoothly now and I’m almost done! Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!

  34. Robyn says:

    I am so happy I saw this! I have some of the shabby chic white target furniture from many years ago and the tops have changed color where the sun hit and they have been through one too many moves. ASCP is the natural go to for the lack of prep work, but again in the bedroom I do not want the rustic look. Also, my pieces are way heavy and in the apartment there really isn’t an acceptable place to paint your furniture :) Your results are fantastic and now that I know I can use a roller this is my next project!

    Fingers crossed! And btw that dresser you did is to die for fantastic!!!

  35. Nena says:

    HELP!!! I painted a kitchen table with Annie Sloan black chalk paint, I applied the polycrylic 3 coats and it is horrible the brush strokes!! How can I get NO brush strokes at all and have it look evenly sealed??

    • Jackie says:


      If you’re using a good quality brush and roller, you shouldn’t have horrible brush strokes. If there were brush strokes in your paint or in the first layer of polycrylic, they only get magnified the more layers you add on. You can lightly sand over the paint to make sure it’s as smooth as possible before applying the polycrylic. Also, be sure not to “over brush” where you go over and over the same area, because as the polycrylic starts to dry even the slightest bit, you’ll create brush strokes. Hope that helps.

  36. Jean Sullivan says:

    Why use chalk paint if you have to sand and prep first. Seems like an unnecessary expense as the price of the paint is high.

    • Jackie says:

      Jean, The appeal of chalk paint is that you do NOT have to sand or prep your furniture before painting, which saves on cost of sanding (sand paper, tack cloths, stripper) and primer. I personally don’t use the wax recommended for chalk paint and instead use the polycrylic…I’ve used one small quart for multiple furniture pieces and still have a lot to go.

      • Jean Sullivan says:

        I am referring to your instructions that say: Latex paint is more susceptible to brush strokes, depending on the quality of the paint. Higher-end paints dry smoother. You also have to properly prepare the surface by stripping and/or sanding the old finish smooth before painting.
        If you want a smooth finish, I don’t understand how that can happen if you start out without a smooth surface. If I have to sand and/or remove paint. I would not use expensive chalk paint.

  37. Melissa says:

    Did the polyacrylic deepen or change the color of the chalk paint beneath it?

  38. shirley lewis says:

    Your article has been very help with making decision on the final look of modern vs matte. However, I have a piece i would like to make darker like you would with the dark wax. But since i want to go with the polycrylic what do you suggest for getting that look and still be able to use the polycrylic. i would like to duplicate the look with out the wax.

    • Jackie says:

      Shirley, I’m not an expert here. I would try your chalk paint on a piece of scrap would and then see if a wood stain works to darken the color before putting on a top coat. That’s the only idea I have.

  39. Michelle Trayers says:

    Thanks for the tips. I have wanted to try this paint but wanted a different finish. How long does it take the poly to cure when painted over the chalk paint?

  40. Tina says:

    IDK if this has been mentioned yet. Too many awesome comments to read….but…if you use a spritzer bottle with water between chalk paint it will make the second/third coat come out super smooth.
    P.S. Great looking piece. Cant wait to use my Any Sloan to paint a “Dorothy Draper”….glossy shiny, of course :) What would be a great color. I LOVE turquoise, maybe yellow???

  41. Valerie says:

    Tina, can you give details on how exactly you spritz with water between coats of paint? Do you wipe the water off? Doesn’t the paint come off? I’d like a smooth surface, but sanding just makes my dark blue paint fade and look horrible. Please describe your technique.

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